Seasonal Cycles: Autumn
Luxembourg offers many spectacles: from the fireworks on the Grand Duke’s birthday to the ‘Burgbrennen’; from the Schueberfouer to the Dancing Procession of Echternach. Yet arguably the greatest display the Grand Duchy has to offer is the glorious vision of its many woods and forests in their remarkable autumnal garb. Stop a while and marvel at the shades of oranges, reds, browns, yellows, purples, even pinks and blues. It’s not possible to count all the different hues.
“Autumn arrived suddenly. The morning was crisp and golden as an apple.”
― J.K. Rowling, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows
Despite the weather getting a little damper and colder, and the days getting shorter this is not the time to stay indoors. Those crisp sunny days are a pure joy at this time of year, and not to be missed.
“I cannot endure to waste anything so precious as autumnal sunshine by staying in the house.” –Nathaniel Hawthorne, The American Notebooks 1842
To really enjoy the show you want to be able to cover a decent distance but always be in touch with the natural world. Of course, the bicycle is the best method for this, and here we offer a stunning autumnal ride that has a little of everything.
“Cyclists see considerably more of this beautiful world than any other class of citizens”
-Dr K.K. Doty
Travelling alongside, above and through some fantastic woodland you’ll get to marvel at the rich colours on display. We’ll follow the route of an old railway, travel through vines and even hop into our neighbours France and Germany. The first section takes us up high to enjoy the views across the country, and then plunges us down to the river, where the second half is wholly flat and stays close to the Moselle. The route centres around Remich and can easily be split into two 30 km rides; or tackled complete as a lovely day in the saddle, with plenty of fabulous, scenic spots to stop. In fact this could even be a Coffeeneuring ride; check #coffeeneuringLux to follow (and contribute to) the serach for great coffee on two wheels.
“Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of riding a bike”
– John F Kennedy
So why not heed the words of JFK (a man who knew a thing or two about life’s pleasures) and head off for a golden day awheel this autumn? Here is our suggestion of a beautiful and enthralling route.
The Ride – Here are the detailed instructions, or use this map and check out this “flyby” of the route.
The ride is circular, so can be picked up anywhere, but we start in Remich, where there is ample free parking. Head north along the river on the PC3 through Stadtbredimus, passing the lock there. Shortly after entering Hettermillen turn left onto ‘Hëtterberg’ this is before the main road up to Greiveldange.
Up this short climb, and turn right at the top onto ‘Hamegaass’. Follow this round, and straight (don’t bear right downhill) until the main road in Greiveldange is reached. Turn left, then second right onto ‘Strachen’.
This undulating road has the huge Briedemësser Bësch ahead towards the right, but don’t forget to look over your left shoulder, over the vines, down the river and towards Germany; it’s a lovely view.
Keep straight all along here and descend into Bous, eventually turning right onto the road. Leave the village and take care going straight across the roundabout (there are zebra crossings if you’d rather walk across it). About half a kilometre on take the first left towards Erpledange on the CR 148. At the top of the small incline turn right onto the farm track. Climb slightly, and take first left, then at the bottom sharp left and then right again, by the electricity pole.
Turn right onto the main road. After about one kilometre bear right, signposted Reckingerhaff *. Keep straight on here, along the farm track. It is another uphill, but the view of the Ellëngerbësch in full autumn colour to the left is fine reward for the effort. Take a moment to rest and enjoy this; the climbing is done for the day, and shortly the route will go right through this forest. Re-join the main road and continue straight into Ellange.
Take the right hand road before the giant wine-barrel, Rue de Cure and follow it onto the farm track**. This track leads to a paved path – turn left onto it. This is the PC7 ‘Jangeli’. Follow this disused railway through the wood, before bursting out of it to vines and views. Then through Scheierberg, turn left at the picnic tables and immediately bear right and downwards.
From here to the river the signs will either say PC7 ‘Jangeli’ or PC3 – Schengen. Both are correct. At the end of the path turn right onto the roundabout, and straight over it, and right at the bottom. Three quarters of a kilometre further on turn hard left, then down and right, eventually using the little path to the right of the main road. This will then cross the road. Here turn right onto the cycle path, signposted Schengen. (if splitting the route turn left here back towards Remich).
From here stay on the PC3 all the way through Schengen, where you can visit the European Museum and the Place des Étoiles to see the columns of each country in the famous agreement. The symbolism of cross border understanding is further enhanced here with a genuine section of the Berlin Wall.
Turn left to go under the bridge. Shortly after leaving Schengen join the road and shortly pass into France. Follow this road all the way to the next bridge (about 4km after leaving Schengen). Left over the bridge and then first left (don’t go over the second bridge), and at the bottom of the sweeping right-hand bend turn left again (signposted “Chemin de la Moselle Vers APACH”), towards Sierck-les-Bains . This is a nice little town to stop for a coffee, or pastry.
Stay along the waterfront until the last tunnel under the railway, turn left and carry on as the signs turn to “Chemin de la Moselle Vers PERL”. Eventually follow this sign right, then left (direction ‘Trier’) onto the “Chemin Robert Schumann”, and into Germany.
Stay heading north with the river on your left, now on the ‘Mosel Radweg’; follow the signs which are a big white M on top of a bicycle. After about 10km of pleasant riding back up to the bridge at Remich, go under the bridge and immediately turn right, then right again across the bridge, back into Luxembourg and return to the starting point.
* to avoid the farm track keep on the road, where the view is not so good.
** to avoid the farm track continue through village turn left onto road then left again onto PC7.